Fringing the Cape Fear River, Wilmington lies just 8 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. Nearby coastal communities include Wrightsville Beach, a tony residential enclave; Carolina Beach, a slice of unabashed honky-tonk, with amusement parks and souvenir stands; and Kure (pronounced "curry") Beach, a low-keyed vacation community dotted with pastel-hued clapboard cottages. It takes just two hours to drive here from Raleigh-Durham, four from Charlotte, six from Washington, D.C., and seven from Atlanta.
Even if you don't know the area, it's likely you've seen it on TV. The late-'90s teen melodrama Dawson's Creek, which featured primetime TV's first guy-on-guy smooch, may be the best-known Hollywood project produced here, but the Cape Fear Coast has been a filming mecca for years. It's served as the backdrop for Blue Velvet, 28 Days, Lolita, Empire Records, Idlewild, several episodes of Matlock, and the gripping 1962 thriller Cape Fear, among dozens of others. In fact, Wilmington claims the nation's largest movie-production facility east of Los Angeles.
This affordable city of about 80,000, which had fallen on hard times during the second half of the 20th century, contains blocks of grand old buildings and houses, which in recent years have attracted artists, designers, lesbian and gay couples, empty nesters, and other urban pioneers. The film industry has infused the city with both creativity and celebrity, and the University of North Carolina at Wilmington - with nearly 11,000 students - helps account for the city's youthful attitude. In a relatively conservative state, Wilmington stands out for its increasing appreciation of diversity in all forms.
You'll detect a funky, artsy vibe as you explore downtown, with its tattoo parlors, music stores, coffeehouses and lounges, and both edgy and sophisticated shops; note the many cool restaurants, too, several of them near the landscaped pedestrian walk skirting the Cape Fear River. Dock Street Oyster Bar, a no-frills chowder house with wooden tables sheathed in butcher paper, serves some of the freshest bivalves around. A homey restaurant with an elegant bar, Deluxe prepares stellar contemporary American fare, such as grilled lamb chops with mint pesto over creamed barley and herb-roasted carrots, finished with a tart-cherry-pistachio chutney. Don't miss the fabulous Sunday brunch. A favorite gay date venue, Caffe Phoenix scores high marks for its dashing interior, accented with tall foliage-crowned trees, and its fine Continental cuisine.
Warm and elegant Circa 1922 presents a tapas-style menu of globally inspired food, along with a well-chosen list of wines by the glass. In the snazzy Lumina Station shopping center, Port Land Grille turns out wonderfully inventive contemporary cuisine, such as seared ahi with cashew-quinoa pilaf, wilted spinach, wasabi cream, and a corn-mango relish.
One of Wilmington's definitive downscale dives, the Salt Works serves delectable short-order chow. For mouthwatering ribs, chicken, and Brunswick stew, head to Jackson's Big Oak Barbecue; check out Kohl's Frozen Custard for a rich and refreshing dessert - it has locations in Wrightsville Beach and southern Wilmington. The local chain Port City Java is fast becoming the Starbucks of the Carolinas - the cozy, gay-popular outpost in historic downtown, with its high ceilings, exposed brick walls, and polished wood floors, makes for great noshing and sipping.
Wilmington, notable for its first-rate live-music venues, also has a kickin' gay nightlife scene for a city its size. Most establishments draw both women and men, and many are mixed gay/straight. Stylish Ibiza appeals to trendy club crawlers - the DJs spin everything from trance to the usual chart-toppers. Thursday is "Girls Night Out," and weekends draw a mostly under-30 types. The other popular gay hangout in town is the Toolbox, which has a lovely patio, pool tables and various games, go-go dancers on Saturdays, and karaoke some nights.
A handsome, laid-back place drawing a mix of queers, straights, and everybody in between, Costello's presents live piano and a classy selection of wines and cocktails. Other mixed bars where you're likely to find like-minded souls include the swish lounge Bevanda, and Level 5 at City Stage, which is both a theater (mostly indie plays and films) and a rooftop cocktail bar. Martha's Karaoke Lounge, on the road to Carolina Beach, often hosted "family"-oriented events and dres an inclusive crowd - sadly, it was lost in a fire in November 2008. Bear in mind that in North Carolina many nightclubs and bars are licensed as "private clubs," meaning that visitors must buy a temporary membership, which typically costs around $10.
