Marsha Brown Creole Kitchen, in New Hope, PA

There's nothing demure of immodest about this striking restaurant, named for its larger-than-life New Orleanian owner, that serves some of the tastiest food in New Hope. A contrast to the town's mostly cute-and-casual restaurants, Marsha Brown is regal and striking, serving up exceptionally fine (and rich) Southern fare - it's perfect for a celebratory dinner you'd like to remember

It's hard to miss the 1874 stone church in downtown New Hope that houses Marsha Brown Creole Kitchen , a dramatic edifice that once contained New Hope Methodist Church. In 2003 restaurateur Brown transformed the decommissioned church into a first-rate eatery specializing in food from her native New Orleans. She deftly utilized the building's Palladian stained-glass windows, ornate plaster moldings, and soaring pitched ceilings in the building's restoration and transformation. And most notably, she commissioned a local Russian artist, Valeriy Belenikin, to fill the back wall where the altar had once been with an emotional, eye-popping 50-foot-tall mural called Redemption.

With such a mesmerizing setting, you could be forgiven for guessing that the food here plays second fiddle, but in fact, the kitchen turns out consistently tasty, well-seasoned New Orleans-inspired food, some of it quite traditional (gumbo ya ya with andouille sausage, crab cakes remoulade, sauteed catfish with dirty rice), but most of it jazzed up with contemporary flourishes. Highlights include tender braised brisket served with a piquant Creole sauce and blue-cheese grits; and pan-seared caramelized scallops and lobster tail over orange rice. Imaginative appetizers include cracked-pepper tuna sashimi with buckwheat soba noodles, and seared blackened lamb medallions with a mango chutney dip.

The family-style sides shouldn't be overlooked - try spicy mashed sweet potatoes topped with pecan-praline sauce, whipped Cajun cauliflower, or asparagus with peach vinaigrette. Among desserts, the "Granmere" comfort custard - from an old family recipe - works nicely. But it's hard to think about more food after such filling dinners. Service is genial and fun, and the restaurant works succeeds on most every level.