Chow restaurant, in the Castro - Gay San Francisco

It may look like an ordinary diner, but this cozy and always-packed bistro-esque cafe on the northeastern edge of the Castro serves downright urbane renditions of traditional American and international comfort foods, and at likeable prices.

A number of hyper-trendy restaurants with amped lighting and music and pricey, if in some cases convoluted, mod-American fare have opened in the once culinarily staid Castro. This is good news on the whole, but you shouldn't overlook the neighborhood's handful of tried-and-true favorites, including Chow, where the warm and easygoing staff and loyal clientele are a welcome sight when you're craving for tasty food without the attitude.

Set in a narrow storefront space on Church Street - steps from the popular gay neighborhood bar, the Pilsner Inn - Chow isn't fancy inside, but pale-green walls and tightly packed wooden tables impart a cheerful, homey look. This is appropriate given the kitchen's love of comfort food, albeit with grown-up accents. Wood-baked artichoke with lemon mayo and crab croquettes with frisee salad and beets are among the more inspired starters. Among the mains, don't miss the heavenly duck legs confit with spaghetti squash, escarole, pancetta, and currants; or the fennel-sausage pizza. Salads and daily-changing sandwiches round out the menu. Desserts are enormous and include a regular rotation of fresh pies (order the luscious coconut-cream pie when it's available), plus malted milkshakes, and ginger cake with pumpkin ice cream.

Chow always has an extensive list of both affordable and pricey wines by the glass. If you're trying to impress your date, this happily unfussy place may not be a good bet. But if you're simply keen on great food and hoping to meet a new date, grab a seat at the counter - it's almost impossible not to knock elbows with your neighbor.