Vincente's Pizza, in the Hawthorne District

Portland's a city with some seriously talented pizza makers, which means Vincente's (1935 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd., 503-236-5223) is in great company. This no-frills spot in funky Hawthorne, which also operates the adjacent Winking Toad Bar, doesn't look like much from the outside - or even inside. The service can be slightly aloof, too. But the pies are simply magical. The menu is divided into three imaginative pizza categories, depending on what base sauce you prefer: tomato and fresh herb, olive oil and crushed garlic (i.e., "white" pies), or basil and sundried tomato pesto. Among the eclectic possibilities, consider the rather spicy Patate, Lamb N' Ham pie, which is topped with spicy lamb sausage, prosciutto, roasted red potatoes, mushrooms, and smoked Mozzarella (it has a tomato and fresh herb base). Very tasty salads, with housemade dressings, are also on offer - the spinach salad with sweet-mustard dressings is a nice one. Also note the nice selection of beers.