The Castro's loveably raffish Pilsner Inn (225 Church St., 415-621-7058) celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2006, but this slightly divey gay neighborhood joint has really come of age in recent years, becoming a favorite destination of low-keyed, amiable, and individualistic San Francisco gay guys (and a handful of lesbians) who eschew the "Csstro Clone" vibe found around 18th and Castro. The Pilsner is fun if you just want to shoot darts and play pool, or if you feel like smoking and chatting (there's a great patio). It's unassuming and usually has cool, indie or alternative rock playing on the juke box. Later in the evening, especially on weekends, the mood can get a bit cruisy, but it's still much less of a meat market, say, Badlands or The Cafe. There's also a nice selection of beers on tap, and just a couple of doors down, you can enjoy a fabulous dinner at the gay-popular restaurant, Chow. It's also a short walk from the city's swankiest and most romantic gay accommodation, lthe Parker Guest House

