Cape Cod in a Nutshell:
Cape Cod, an arm-shaped peninsula (technically it was "divorced" from the mainland in 1914 by the opening of Cape Cod Canal) less than an hour southeast of Boston, is one of the world's great summer playgrounds. It's famous among gay travelers for its outermost community, Provincetown, but Cape Cod is actually highly gay-friendly from end to end, with a variety of eclectic communities offering everything from great biking and fishing to a wealth of art galleries and sophisticated inns. Gradually, gay visitors are exploring other parts of the Cape as well as the famous nearby islands, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket.
The Seasons:
Although Cape Cod is more popular in summer, and many of its businesses close off-season, it's actually appealing year-round, especially during the less-crowded but still mild spring and fall seasons. Generally, the towns closer to the mainland remain the most popular year-round, among them Falmouth and Sandwich.
Climate varies depending on where you are on the Cape. Mid Cape, averages are 37F/21F in Jan., 52F/38F in Apr., 78F/63F in July, and 60F/44F in Oct. Snow falls occasionally in winter, and summer breezes generally prevent extended heat waves. Fall and spring offer crisp, cool, and often beautiful weather.
The Location:
Cape Cod is a roughly 400-square-mile peninsula off the southeastern coast of Massachusetts, separated from the mainland only by a narrow canal constructed in 1914. It's shaped roughly like a curled arm, with the largest and most populous section nearest to the mainland and known as the Upper Cape. As you progress farther east and away from the mainland, you come to the Mid Cape and Lower Cape, and the narrowest and farthest-away section is the Outer Cape - at the end of this section, you'll find gay-popular Provincetown. The islands of Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard lie just south of Cape Cod.
Driving Distances:
Driving distances to the Upper Cape bridges, which mark the beginning of Cape Cod, from prominent places and points of interest are:
Boston: 55 miles (1 hr)
Burlington, VT: 270 miles (4.5 to 5 hrs)
Montreal: 430 miles (6.5 to 7.5 hrs)
Newport, RI: 60 miles (1 hr)
New Haven, CT: 160 miles (2.5 hrs)
New York City: 240 miles (4 hrs)
Northampton: 150 miles (2.5 hrs)
Portland, ME: 160 miles (2.5 hrs)
Providence, RI: 60 miles (1 hr)
Provincetown: 60 miles (75 min)
Washington, DC: 460 miles (7 to 8 hrs)
Traveling to Cape Cod:
Although a car is handy for reaching the Cape and exploring different parts of it, in summer the traffic is horrendous, and a car can be a liability. The Cape has excellent public transportation, both to and around the region.
You can fly into the region's major airports, such as Providence's T.F. Green Airport, and Boston's busy Logan International, which are both about an hour away from the Cape. Or fly to the Cape's own Barnstable Airport. The Cape is well-served by Bonanza Bus Lines, Cape Cod Regional Transit, and Plymouth & Brockton bus lines, plus numerous ferry services (see Martha's Vineyard and P'town).
Cape Cod Events and Festivals:
In addition to those events listed below, there are numerous GLBT events that take place in Provincetown.
Mid-May: Cape Cod Maritime Days.
Early June: Cape Cod Antique Dealers Association Spring Show.
Mid-July: Barnstable County Fair.
Aug.: Cape & Islands Chamber Music Festival.
Aug.: New England Jazz Festival.
Late Aug.: Cape Cod Gay Pride Festival in Hyannis at Club 477/Mallory Dock.
Sept.: Harwich Cranberry Festival.
Cape Cod - Towns and Divisions:
Cape Cod is divided into four geographical sections, the Upper Cape, which is nearest the mainland; and the Mid Cape, Lower Cape, and Outer Cape, which are progressively farther from the mainland. Although the Outer Cape, because it's home to the famed gay resort of Provincetown, is most popular with GLBT travelers, each section of the Cape has its charms and worthy attractions.
The most noteworthy communities on the Cape include Sandwich, Falmouth, and Woods Hole on the Upper Cape; Barnstable and Hyannis on the Mid Cape; Chatham, Brewster, and Orleans on the Lower Cape; and P'town and Wellfleet on the Outer Cape.
Top Cape Cod Attractions:
You'd need a full week to explore the Cape, but here are a few must-sees (also see Provincetown).
Plymouth (just off the Cape): Plimoth Plantation.
Sandwich: Thornton W. Burgess Museum.
Sandwich: Heritage Museums and Gardens.
Falmouth: Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.
Dennis: Cape Playhouse.
Dennis: Cape Cod Museum of Art.
Brewster: Cape Cod Museum of Natural History.
Brewster: Nickerson State Park.
Brewster: Nickerson State Park.
Chatham: Shopping in downtown Chatham.
Chatham: Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge.
Outer Cape: Cape Cod National Seashore.
Wellfleet: Downtown art gallery hopping.
Resources for gay travlers to Cape Cod:
Each town on Cape Cod has a very good chamber of commerce with its own website, but you can also get plenty of general information on the region from the Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce, which can help with accommodations, sightseeing, transportation, and other travel assistance.
A good resource on gay-friendly businesses on the Cape is the Cape Cod and Islands Pride Pages. In Provincetown, look to the Provincetown Business Guild for tons of great information on gay travel to one of the country's leading resort destinations.
Getting to Know Cape Cod:
Scenic, artsy, and generally liberal Cape Cod has long been a popular place to vacation and live among gays and lesbians. Provincetown, for good reason, gets much of the attention with the GLBT crowd, but the entire Cape actually has plenty to see and do. Certain areas are a bit more geared toward kids and families than others, particularly the somewhat built-up stretch along Rte. 28 from the east edge of Hyannis through Yarmouth, Dennis Port, Harwich, and West Chatham.
There are a few towns on the Cape, beyond just Provincetown, that have quietly developed increased cachet in recent years. On the Upper Cape, both Sandwich and Falmouth have inviting commercial districts and great restaurants. Falmouth, in particular, makes for a terrific weekend getaway and is also a wonderful base for making day-trips to Martha's Vineyard. Excellent gay-friendly lodging choice in the area include Falmouth's stately Palmer House Inn and Captain Tom Lawrence House, and Sandwich's historic Inn at Sandwich Center
In the Mid Cape, the bustling town of Hyannis, with its extensive ties to the Kennedy family, has a vibrant downtown with great dining as well as the only gay bar on the Cape outside of Provincetown, Mallory Dock/Club 477. Just north in Barnstable, scenic and charming Rte. 6A runs through Yarmouth, East Dennis, and Brewster, passing by dozens of antiques shops, cafes, and galleries. If you have the time, it's the most enjoyable route across the Cape. Highly recommended gay-friendly accommodations include the Lamb and Lion Inn, the Captain Freeman Inn, the Captain Farris House, and the recently refurbished Crow's Nest Resort & Cottages.
The Lower and Outer Cape communities of Chatham and Wellfleet are particularly charming for shopping, dining, and exploring nature. Chatham has something of a conservative reputation, at least as Cape Cod goes, somewhat akin to blue-blooded Nantucket, but accommodations here are still perfectly gay-friendly. Wellfleet is a bit more artsy and extremely secluded, it being the last community with bustling downtown center before you reach Provincetown - you'll find a slew of excellent art galleries here. Gay-friendly accommodations in these parts include Wellfleet's handsome Stone Lion Inn, Eastham's luxurious Penny House Inn, Orleans's sunny and bright Little Inn on Pleasant Bayand Chatham's dignified Queen Anne Inn.
Provincetown, of course, is still a winner when it comes to its dynamic, exciting gay scene, but don't overlook the rest of Cape Cod.
