No, Nashville's famously huge Opryland Hotel Resort (2800 Opryland Dr., 615-889-1000) isn't exactly a gay mecca - this enormous hot house of American values appeals largely to conservative families and other red-state types. But the management is perfectly gay-friendly, and you'll see plenty of LGBT sorts working here, if not necessarily staying here. Moreover, it's a beautiful place, surprisingly tasteful given its Vegas-esque grandeur. It's good fun walking around the massive enclosure of lushly landscaped conservatories that connect the different hotel buildings - they're rife with restaurants and shops. If you're looking for a tasty meal, head to the new Water's Edge Marketplace Buffet, which is highly impressive as buffets go - upscale but not unreasonably priced, and with high-quality food and plenty of healthful options. Ristorante Volare is the best of the high-end dining options, and the Grand Ole Opry is an obvious draw, as is the well-regarded Relache Spa and the Gaylord Springs Golf Course. There's also enough shopping at neighboring Opry Mills to die-hard retail fans busy for days...maybe weeks. In short, no trip to Nashville is complete without at least ducking into Opryland and observing the mix of people - if you start to feel antsy and overwhelmed by social conservatives, you're just a 10-minute drive from funky East Nashville's happily gay vibe.

