Nisos (176 8th Ave., 646-336-8121) is a casual but rather more substantial Greek restaurant several years back. It's steadily evolved into one of 8th Avenue's gayest eateries, with a notable following in the cozy up-front bar each evening, too. Good bets from the moderate-price menu include the Mediterranean seafood salad, the fennel-and-feta tart with sauteed bacon and caramelized onions, grilled octopus with olive oil and vinegar, avgolemono soup, and grilled salmon over arugula with roasted-garlic vinaigrette.


